Top 10 Mistakes People Make Raising Chickens

Being a new chicken owner is fun and exciting, and it is easy to become enamored with chickens and their adorable antics. Generally speaking, chickens are hearty little creatures that often take great care of themselves. But mistakes are made, and here are my top 10 mistakes made starting off raising chickens. Had I known what I know now, I may have been able to keep my first few flock members around for much longer.

1. Coop Size Issues

One of the first concerns for a new chicken owner is to find the perfect coop for their new flock, and one of the biggest mistakes made is purchasing or building a coop that is not large enough for the number of chickens that will be occupying it. Sure, chickens are small when they are young, but when a hen starts to fill out, that cute little coop for sale online will probably end up being too small. It’s smart to watch out for coops that are meant for rabbits but advertised “great for chickens too” because chickens will quickly outgrow a small coop.

4ft x 8ft chicken coop
4ft x 8ft Chicken Coop – I Had To Expand Three Times

By the way, those cute coops online? Yes, they are cute, but new chicken owners should always look closely at the materials being used, often, the construction is poor, and the wood is extremely weak or untreated. Coops like this simply do not last in the elements. Follow our DIY chicken coop plans here and get details on quality builds.

2. Lack of Protection from Predators

It might be easy to whip up a simple coop for a new flock, but if the proper precautions are taken, predators will quickly find a way in. Weasels, for example, can squeeze into the smallest openings on a coop and cause devastating damage. Each coop must be checked for gaps to prevent predators from killing birds, stealing eggs or spreading diseases. Automatic chicken coop doors are an excellent way to protect your flock from predators.

possum attacking chickens
Possum In Chicken Coop Eating Eggs

3. Run Size Issues

When I began my chicken journey, I couldn’t allow my chickens to free-range, so it was necessary for me to provide a run for them to forage, and exercise, in. I was completely delusional about the amount of space a chicken needs to stay healthy and happy—not to mention to maintain the health of my lawn.

It turns out that if 10 square feet per chicken is not provided in confinement, chickens will fight, trample the earth, and even become ill. It is incredible to see how quickly a small flock of chickens can destroy a small patch of lawn. I guess the good stuff is always on the bottom.

4. Not Providing Adequate Grit

For years I was under the impression that oyster shells were synonymous with grit. What I didn’t know, was that I was depriving my chickens of a valuable tool that aids in digestion. I was buying only oyster shells thinking that it would work the same as grit. This wasn’t a problem for my free-range birds, but not having adequate grit caused impacted crops for the ones living in confinement.

5. Forgetting That Pet Chickens Get Old

I never wanted to butcher my chickens, but because I was terrible at “chicken math,” I was always accumulating more.  I loved trying out new breeds, and I enjoyed incubating my purebred Orpington eggs, but all of a sudden, I had more chickens than I knew what to do with, and needless to say, some needed to go.

Unfortunately, I never had a plan for the older chickens that were no longer laying. I often joked that they became free-loaders, but in all reality, I needed to either sell them, give them away, or butcher them to make room for the productive birds.

I quickly learned that it’s a good idea to have a plan for chicken retirement before a flock of 10 turns into 50 without even realizing it. I wish I would have thought it through before I became too overwhelmed and didn’t know what to do with all my birds. Needless to say, I learned to slow down with my chicken-buying habits, and to part with my beloved birds in the best way I saw fit.

6. Taking Roll Call at Night

After a long day at work, it’s easy to just pry myself off the coach to mindlessly close the chicken coop up for the night without taking a head count. One winter I didn’t count my chickens, and I closed up shop before one of my professional foragers returned for the night. Sadly, she froze to death, and to this day I will never close up at night before taking roll call. Even during the summer, a straggler can get snatched up by a predator and never seen again.

Something has helped me with my late nights and not making it at night to close the coop is my automatic chicken coop door, which has helped in the laziness department. Though, if my flock has been free ranging all day I like to take a walk and roll call to make sure they are safe. If I know they are in the run, I trust the automatic coop door to do the job.

chickens roosting
Taking Count Before Closing Up

7. Inspecting Fresh Eggs

I’ll admit, when I collected my first batch of fresh eggs, I was a little nervous about getting sick. I had always eaten store-bought eggs that I had always assumed were fresh and clean. Now, the cleaning was up to me. I was terrified that I would accidentally give away a beautiful carton of eggs to someone and they would get sick.

After a few years of eating farm fresh eggs, I became lazier and lazier. I had never gotten sick, and instead of obsessively checking over each egg for blemishes, cracks, and poo, I found myself nonchalantly washing them in warm water and consuming them without a second glance.

However, since I am considered the master of deviled eggs, I was recently charged with making three dozen for our family’s Easter. I love to make hard-boiled eggs in the instant pot, and as I was lowering one egg at a time, I became horrified at the sight of a slight crack in one of my beautiful blue eggs. I had forgotten how easy it was to miss a cracked egg!

Cracked eggs allow for bacteria from poop and other organisms to enter the egg and cause illness when consumed, so needless to say, my egg checking habits were soon back in check.

8. Inadequate Nesting Boxes

Speaking of egg-checking, another mistake newbie chicken farmers often make is not having a desirable nesting box for their hens—or none at all! Chickens absolutely must have a safe, enclosed, nesting box to produce clean, crack-free, eggs regularly.

5 nesting boxes in chicken coop
Adding 5 Nesting Boxes to Accommodate More Chickens

When I moved my hens into the barn for the winter, I gave them a weak-looking nesting box that was exposed to the elements of the barn. It was a small box, similar to that of a shoebox cover. Again, laziness set in and I was naively sure that production would keep up all winter. Boy, was I wrong. My hens started laying their eggs all over their pen, and nowhere near the nesting box. The eggs were damaged from being trampled, dirty, and eventually, I didn’t have any fresh eggs to speak of–either they stopped laying, or they began eating them.

To remedy this messy situation, I replaced the shoebox with an enclosed nesting box with a small entrance, just large enough for my hens to enter.  It had a lovely little door on the side that I could open for collecting my eggs, and to my delight, after about a week with the new nesting box, my hens were leaving clean eggs for breakfast once again.

9. Not Collecting Eggs Regularly

I’m letting my laziness shine through here, but I’m hoping it helps beginners avoid making the same mistakes I did as a beginner. In the colder months, I didn’t feel the urgency to collect eggs every morning because I knew the temperature was cold enough to keep them fresh. Sometimes I would collect them in the evening, and yes, sometimes I’d wait a day to collect. What ended up happening was twofold:

  1. Eggs became trampled, cracked, or they burst from the cold.
  2. Due to the cracks in the eggs, the chickens became curious enough to start pecking at the imperfections on the neglected eggs; thus, they developed the nasty (hard-to-break) habit of egg eating.

It took me a good month, and a lot of trial and error, to remedy this epidemic. With a few porcelain eggs and some filled with mustard, the ladies were back in business. Make no mistake, egg-eating is a tough habit to break and when one chicken starts, they all want a taste.

chicken eating their own eggs

10. Rooster Considerations

Roosters are often misunderstood by new chicken owners. I am amazed at how often I find myself defending my roosters to other chicken fanciers. I can’t imagine a flock without a rooster, and I am lucky to be able to keep them where I live. Not every rooster is like the scary dinosaurs often seen chasing children in the latest viral video. They really just care about protecting their hens. Since having a rooster in my free-range flock, I haven’t lost a single hen to an aerial predator.

Even beginners will find that raising a young roo can be fun, entertaining, and easier than initially thought. The problems arise when there are either too many, or too few roosters for the number of hens and space provided.

For example:

  • If there are too few hens, a rooster may hurt them by breeding them too much. This can cause injuries, feather loss, and exhausted hens—which inevitably can lead to a slow in egg production.
  • If there are too many roosters, they will undoubtedly fight over the hens, and may even kill each other for them if there is not enough space provided for a multiple-rooster flock.

Lastly, some newbies believe that in order to get eggs from hens, a rooster must be present in the flock. For those who cannot keep a rooster…great news! You don’t need a rooster to have fresh eggs. Luckily, a hen will produce unfertilized eggs, perfect for french toast, even without a rooster.

Everyone is bound to make some mistakes when they first start raising chickens. There certainly is a learning curve, but luckily, chickens are forgiving animals, and by correcting errors, a healthy and happy flock is easy to keep for many years.

What were some of the mistakes you learned from? Let me know below, I am sure someone will benefit from your learned lessons.

 

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Comments

  1. Janet says

    I have a question that’s part confession! I have a little flock with 3 12 week old Sussex chicks and 3 same age Easter Eggers. I fed them medicated chick crumbles till they were 8 weeks old, then wanted to switch them to 18% grower crumbles. My local feed store was out, so we mixed unmedicatedchick crumbles with layer pellets. Seemed to work fine. Then, last time I went in, the clerk showed me a brand that also had oyster shards in it , same price, and suggestEd it was better for my girls. Ok, I mixed it with chick crumbles and odd I went. After about a week, I noticed that my birds were dropping feathers and seemed quieter than usual. Last weekend, we moved my birds to their very own run, 10×20 for the 6 of them. Then I noticed that they all had very odd colored poop! Everything from mustard to brick red. I’ve switched them back to regular feed and added probiotics and electrolytes to their water. As an aside, I put some sand with DE mixed in, into a depression in their run thinking they’d use it for dust bathing. Nope, they’ve been eating it! Over the last few days, their poop seems to be becoming more normal, but the feather loss continues. Nobody has any bare spots, just looks like an awful lot of feathers on the floor.
    Suggestions?

    • Donna says

      All the feathers could mean your girls are molting it is totally normal. This happens a couple times a year. I don’t use DE anymore . I use my girls eggshells crushed up, tiny pieces. Good for calcium and thier eggshells being stronger. Hope this helps.

    • Janet says

      Thanks, suggestions very calming! Several developments; food back to normal, they’ve learned how to take a dust bath, I dusted everything with DE, feathers continue to drop! I asked my DIL, more experience with chickens than me, over and we checked them all over. No bugs anywhere but jillions of pin feathers! Further reading has informed me that a juvenile molt at 12-13 weeks is normal.

  2. Jeanette hayward says

    I love your chick tips! Can you answer this: unbeknownst to me, my husband fertilized the lawn with weed & feed. The chickens were out about 10 minutes before I noticed the white flecks on the grass, so I’m positive they ate some. What do I do now?

    • The Happy Chicken Coop says

      What are the ages? If they are laying eggs do not eat the eggs, discard. There is not much you can do at this point other than isolate them from the weed n feed and always provide fresh water.

  3. Erin says

    I’m new to this. I have a coop that says large enough for 5-6 birds, but I only saw three nesting bays. Will the hens alternate when they lay eggs, or do we need to increase the bays to match the number of chickens. We are buying the chics at the same time, from the same farm (2 RIR, 2 Orpington Buffs, and 2 Plymouth Rock) Thank you. Love your blog by the way.

  4. Laveda says

    I have a rooster that is extremely mean. I have 6 hens that I guess he protects. Sometimes it takes 2 people to be able to even go in their pen to feed and water them. What should I do?

      • Jennifer Ho says

        Is your rooster mean to hens as well as people? Mean-rooster-soup is my solution. I recommend everyone read, Animals in Translation by Temple Grandin. She’s amazing at explaining animal behavior. Roosters that injure or are aggressive to hens isn’t natural, she points out. Nature would never have a psychologically healthy animal that kills it’s mate, and many roosters today do. She suggests abnormal behavior is a result of selecting for a trait not realizing what else comes with it. Like getting a meatier bird or a higher productive bird and accidentally getting some other side effect like aggression. Long ago farmers were quick to cull birds with undesirable traits so as not to pass on those genes. There are plenty of good roosters out there, no need to keep an aggressive one. Good luck.

  5. Sheryl Hollingsworth says

    What do you put in your actual coop besides hay to minimize odor. My hens free range during the day but we live in Florida and it is already 90 degree days. The odor is getting strong. Love your blog,,

  6. Janice Bonneau says

    How do I train my 8-10 week chicks to come back into the coop at night? Will they know to do it by themselves?

    • HappyChicken says

      This could be a number of things. From what they are eating, worms, coccidiosis disease, viruses and bacteria from diet change, polluted water, or moldy feed. I would make sure they don’t have other sickness symptoms and if they start to decline in health, separate them from your flock so it does not spread.

      Claire

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